Coolie

“Mazdoor ka paseena sookhne se pehle, uski mazdoori mil jani chahiye janaab “

                ”Sir, the labourer must be paid before his sweat dries out”

                                            Amitabh Bachchan, in “Coolie”

The experience I am going to narrate is around the mid-nineties. I am fond of visiting archaeological sites, whenever an opportunity arises. There were two holidays ahead, I had just finished an assignment and was feeling good. I just picked up the map and tried to find someplace where I could visit. I found a place not so well known but it was somehow on the historical and archaeological listings. I could very well make it in the available time. It appeared to be not a very popular place and was scarcely populated by tourists which I liked.

I quickly checked the train timetable. Only one train would take me there. It would start in the evening and stop there in the dead of midnight. I liked train journeys more than the bus for many reasons. It offers more comfort. You can stretch your legs, you can walk around and of course, relieve yourself if in an emergency without having to stop the train. The buses in this part of the world were not clean and good. They would take more time than what they declared and you don’t know when your pants or shirt will get that indelible red pan mark from the ubiquitous spitting. 

Immediately after lunch, I packed the needed items which included my usual notebook, and a camera, for some reason I always included a measuring tape as part of my travel kit, a knife for cutting the fruits, a salt and sugar packet, and some fruits. Took the needful quantity of comfort clothing and some bedding not knowing what would be needed. My pack of items also included a pen torch and a book to read en route.

As there was no time for reservation, I dashed to the station and was there about an hour before the train arrived. I purchased a second-class ordinary ticket which would legally allow me to get into the unreserved compartment. There was an announcement declaring the arrival of the train. I sighed in relief as it was on time and I did not have to wait for long. I reached the platform and saw the train arrive. There was a technical halt of half an hour at the station for cleanliness and filling the water. That gave me ample time.

I saw a TTE come out and approached him. They are the easiest ones to spot because of their typical black coat (worn even in the peak of summer) and white pants. Outside of the railway station, it would be difficult to identify TTE from a lawyer. They both look the same with that Black Coat and white pants and some odd coloured tie around the collar. I told him that I needed to go to this place and I had only a second-class ticket. He looked at me and told me to occupy a particular seat. The berth happened to be the lower one in the middle of the bogie. The rest of the seats were occupied by members of a family. I put my bag beneath the berth locked it and came out to breathe fresh air.

I saw a very huge man breathing hard approaching our bogie. He was followed by a coolie who was having two suitcases over his head and two shoulder bags. The luggage must have been very heavy. The big burly man was panting, I could clearly make out that he was too overweight for his heart. The coolie lowered the luggage and put them in the first compartment. He asked for the payment. The big guy gave him Rs 10. The coolie said it was agreed for Rs 20. The big guy started abusing the coolie and said he will not give a single paisa more than the standard rate. Coolie also raised his voice. As the argument heated up, other coolies joined. There was a big commotion.

The big man would not budge. Suddenly, he started shouting, ‘What are you doing…’. At first, I could not understand, but then I saw what happened. The coolie simply lifted the luggage and vanished. This big man went after them but was not a match at all. His family members who were seated in the coach were all puzzled and did not know what to do.

It was about time the train departed. I could see the green light and the ear-deafening sound of the train horn. I entered the coach and took my seat. This big man was all agog and looking for railway police who obviously were missing. He started moving towards the inquiry. Right then the train started chugging ahead slowly. He was on the platform. Looking bewildered and lost, he shouted something to his family, and right then the train stopped. Someone probably his family members had pulled the emergency chain. The train would now start only after finding out the exact reasons by the guard. I was happy for the delay as it would allow me to reach later than midnight.

A big burly man was talking to the TTE who came there to check. Then there was an announcement over the PAS about some luggage, if anybody has lost should report to the Railway Police Force (RPF) Office. The big burly man somehow convinced TTE to join him at the RPF office. I had nothing to do and was curious to find out what happened. So I just trailed them to the RPF office. The luggage was there, the man claimed the luggage with the help of TTE. RPF person was smiling all along and got some forms filled before giving the luggage.

The man needed coolies to bring the luggage to the train. He could not carry the load. But there were no coolies to be seen around. He had to request the police, who in turn went out and after some time could get the same coolie to come forward. The RPF person negotiated with the burly man and made him pay Eighty rupees up front to the coolie. In the meantime, I talked to one of the police people. He explained that the coolie brought the luggage and told them that the owner did not pay them the requisite agreed amount and explained it belonged to a very big man, told the train number and berth number also. The coolie was honest. The police were very considerate and argued for the coolie.

There was nothing wrong in him asking four times the charges as he had carried the luggage thrice the distance. He also lost a valuable lot of time which he could have fruitfully utilised to engage other customers and earn more. It was rightfully his. 

Well, by the time the matter was settled and the train started it was well past midnight. I slept peacefully as my destination would arrive in the morning.